This is part 2 of our 2022 fashion takeover — where we present a list of upcoming black fashion designers from the US and Africa to keep your eyes on this year. Make sure to check out part 1, where we look at 5 emerging black designers based in the UK.
1. Kerby Jean-Raymond (@pyermoss)
Kerby Jean-Raymond is a Haitian-American fashion designer and founded his menswear label, Pyer Moss, in 2013. He’s since worked diligently to establish himself as a major talent within the industry – and he’s no stranger to an award or two.
- In 2014 he won the FGI Rising Star Award in the menswear category and was a finalist in the DHL Exported Prize presented by IMG Worldwide.
- In 2015 he brought the Black Lives Matter movement to the runway at New York Fashion Week through the use of fashion, video and street art. This really propelled him into the spotlight and he was included in the Forbes “30 Under 30” list the same year.
- In April 2019 he was featured on Cultured Magazine’s fashion issue cover.
- In September 2020, he was named Global Creative Director of Reebok. That same month, he won the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) / Vogue Fashion award.
Last year, he created history as he became the first black designer invited to show his collection at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week (in its 150-year plus history). The show paid homage to black inventors, who have been historically overlooked and forgotten. This was such a monumental moment in the industry that the show made our list of 5 iconic fashion moments for 2021!
The notion of community is central to Kerby’s work. He has spent the past couple of years creating a talent incubator for young, talented black designers to help them get their foot in the door of an industry that has so often overlooked and marginalised black talent. The incubator has birthed the likes of Hanifa and Theophilio (who we look at below).
2. Anifa Mvuemba (@hanifaofficial)
Anifa Mveumba is a US-based Congolese designer and is a true pandemic success story. Her brand, Hanifa is inspired by “a woman’s journey to a life without limits” – and this is certainly evident in the story behind her brand’s creation.
After dropping out of college, Anifa quit her retail job and began to create custom womenswear and share the clothing on Instagram. She utilises bold colours, captivating designs and unique textures to produce garments that accommodate and highlight the natural curves of black women.
She quickly gained a following and eventually massive media attention with her “Pink Label Congo” collection in 2020. The collection was originally supposed to be presented live at Fashion Week. But surprise – lockdown happened! Determined not to let this stop her, she decided to turn the collection into a virtual one and stream it over Instagram Live, transforming each garment into a 3D image, and fitting and moving them onto the body of invisible 3D models.
It was all up for Hanifa from here as celebrities like Zendaya, Gabrielle Union and Tracee Ellis Ross instantly became admirers. With all this recent success, Anifa must certainly be proud, and it’s pretty amazing that she achieved this without having even presented a live collection!
She debuted her first live collection (called “Dream”) at the end of 2021, which received a truly positive reception. Inclusion is an integral part of Hanifa’s DNA as the brand uses predominantly uses black and brown models and offers inclusive sizing ranging from 0 to 20.
While we can’t say for sure what’s next up Anifa’s sleeves, it’s safe to say it will be big. And as long as Hanifa continues to infuse inclusivity and forward-thinking into every creation, there’s no room for downhill.
Catch a glimpse of her iconic virtual fashion show below.
3. Edvin Thompson (@theophilio)
Edvin Theopolis Thompson is a Jamaican-American designer born in Kingston, who moved to America at age 9, living in New Jersey and later Atlanta, Georgia (and he is now based in Brooklyn).
He was crowned American Emerging Designer of the Year at the 2021 CFDA Fashion Awards and in the same year was a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist. Edvin explains “since I was six years old, I was artistically inclined, drawing, painting, but clothing is the best medium for me to really express myself truthfully.”
He started his label, Theophilio, in 2016 and has since gained recognition for his show-stopping designs, which are inspired by his unique global perspective and personal stories of his upbringing. He’s interested in capturing not just the spirit of Jamaica, but also the immigrant experience (as reflected inhis 2021 collection, “Migration”, which provided a much-needed social commentary for redefining immigration in a more positive light).
The influence of his Jamaican heritage is evident in the vibrant colours, rich materials and silhouettes that are present throughout his collections, which ultimately make him stand out from the crowd. His SS22 collection “Air Jamaica”, was named after the now-defunct airline of the same name that first took him and his family to America in 2002. The airline was known to provide a rich and distinct Jamaican cultural experience for its passengers through its food and the colourful uniforms worn by its personnel. Each look in the collection recalled the airline’s aeroplane interiors while incorporating the red, green and yellow colours of the Rastafarian flag. The clothes reflected Jamaica’s bold and vibrant energy while keeping with Edvin’s signature confident and sexy silhouettes.
Edvin’s creativity is also strongly tied to sustainable practices. For example, his debut collection, “Melancholy” was created by repurposing dead-stock fabrics. He hopes to impact the elitist nature of the fashion industry and to accomplish sustainable solutions to combat its negative impact on the environment.
4. Sora Diouf (@tongorostudio)
Sarah Diouf, the self-identified “child of Africa”, is the creative genius behind Tongoro, an online womenswear label (based in Dakar, Senegal) that can proudly be called ‘Made in Africa’. She was raised in Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire by parents of Senegalese, Congolese, and Central African descent.
Sarah describes herself as a “dreamer who makes things happen in her universe” – and this is certainly true. Let’s take a look at some of the African entrepreneur’s accomplishments to date:
- She moved to Paris where she earned a masters degree in marketing and communication from INSEEC U.
- In 2009, she created a digital magazine, “Ghubar”, that promoted African and Arab art and fashion.
- In 2015, she created NOIR, a lifestyle magazine intended to connect black women all over the world.
- In 2016, she moved to Dakar, Senegal and established Tongoro (inspired by the nickname her mother gave her, “Tongoro”, which means “star” in Central African Republic).
The brand focuses on promoting African craftsmanship as she works with local tailors, textiles and suppliers. Every look is named after an African city or region, such as the Gorée dress (named after the Gorée beach in Senegal) or the Fitini bag (which can be translated as “small” in Ivorian). Her collections feature a range of colours and prints inspired by symbols and a purely African aesthetic that Sarah describes as “very regal, yet airy at the same time.”
In describing the Tongoro woman, Sarah says “she is an adventurous woman who enjoys travelling, leads a busy social life, is open-minded and ultimately afraid of nothing!” So, it’s no wonder her customers include the likes of Naomi Campbell, Alicia Keys, and Beyonce! Naturally, the Senegal-based brand has gone on to receive international recognition following such strong celebrity endorsement.
The commitment that Sarah has shown to the promotion of African craftsmanship is incredibly inspiring. Tongoro’s shop is currently undergoing some changes – they say they will be back after the holidays. So, she’s clearly working on something – and we can’t wait to see what it is!
5. Taofeek Abijako (@headofstate_)
Nigerian-born Taofeek Abijako, founded his company, Head of State (inspired by a Fela Kuti song of the same name) in 2016. As mentioned on their website, Head of State is “a representation of postcolonial youth culture today. It aims to provoke and further dialogue about the past, current and future state of marginalised spaces.”
Taofeek’s interest in fashion was first sparked by watching his father (also a fashion designer) work in his studio back in Lagos, Nigeria. Following the family’s move to the US in 2010, Taofeek taught himself how to sew and began selling clothes to friends and family while still in school, eventually launching Head of State as a full-on brand at just 17 years old. And in 2018, he became the youngest designer to show at men’s New York Fashion Week at just 19 years of age!
Interestingly enough, the brand was originally intended to be a non-profit architectural firm. Staying true to its philanthropical roots “proceeds from sales provide funding for a variety of initiatives that are dedicated to helping underserved communities build sustainable futures through innovation in the education, infrastructure and sanitation sectors.”
Taofeek draws on his multicultural experiences, to design clothes that are functionally adapted for city life, while still keeping his African flare alive by referencing traditional Nigerian fashion.
The young designer has since expanded into womenswear, debuting his first women’s collection for SS22. Having already accomplished so much at such a young age, Taofeek is certainly one designer to keep on your radar!
You can learn more about the brand’s initiatives and their work on their website.
